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‘Keeping up with the War God’: BOOK REVIEW

Keeping up with the War God, by Steven Crook
(Yushan Publications, 2001)
Buy it on Amazon.com here

This is a fantastic read for anyone who’s already perused all the guidebooks and now wants to delve into some of the deeper historical contexts behind important people, places and mind-bending customs in Taiwan.

Seasoned travel writer Steven Crook, who has written for basically every magazine and newspaper in the region, first penned this memoir with the subtitle “Taiwan, As It Seemed To Me” in 2001. War God is a classic for sure, a compact, 133-page treasure for hard-core Taiwan-history-lovers like me to carry around and savour its richly detailed chapters at a leisurely pace.

Keeping up with the War God has a loosely connected series of essays that overall is phenomenally well-researched. There is no concrete plot, really, but as readers we don’t care where Steven is taking us, because ‘it’s all good’ as they say in America. It gives the colorful, condensed history of places like Jade Mountain, Chiang Kai-shek’s (non-)burial place in Taoyuan County, Keelung, Dr. MacKay in Tamshui, the Dutch and Koxinga in Tainan, head-hunters in Wulai.

Often while touring Taiwan, travelers can’t find sufficient information about the amazing history of these places, so this book makes up for that. As readers we are traveling vicariously through its author, and benefiting from Crook’s impressive knowledge of Taiwan history and ability to penetrate the many layers of history to explain why Taiwan has say, ‘hell marriages’ — symbolic marriages between dead persons, to put the spirits to rest.

At times the customs have changed in the past 10 years, but Crook has conscientiously added updates in many of these instances.

Steven’s website: http://crooksteven.blogspot.com.
The Wild East magazine’s interview with Steven: Steven Crook: Taiwan’s consummate cultural notetaker

Review by Trista di Genova. Submit your book for review at trista at thewildeast dot net.

Transformative Yoga Retreat: Kenting Feb. 11-12

Wild East staff

The ‘Transformative Yoga Retreat’ will take place on the beautiful south coast of Kenting, Taiwan, with Hatha/ Kundalini/Ashtanga certified yoga teachers and Reiki masters: Lisa Furtado, Mayna Chien and Emily Anjali O’Sheehan, the weekend of February 11 and 12, 2012.

Kaohsiung Yogi is hosting a weekend retreat of detoxification, rejuvenation and transformation. At a comfortable southern B&B, surrounded by space and nature, there will be a balance of traditional yogic practices with the luxuries of modern living.

All are invited to practice yoga, meditate and breathe. Cultivate a state of inner peace and purity. Nourish your personal journey with delicious vegetarian meals and cool/ hot springs.

Take an active or relaxed approach with a selection of optional workshops and classes:

Sat. Feb. 11th
Meditation – Lisa
Chakra Hatha Yoga – Emily
Thai massage and Tibetan Bowl healing – Mayna
Ayurveda/Nutrition – Emily
Reiki – Mayna, Lisa
Hotsprings
Dinner at Hotsprings

Sun. Feb 12th
Kundalini Yoga – Mayna
Guided Meditation – Lisa
Chakra Hatha Yoga – Emily
Journal Writing – Lisa Furtado, author of “Her Apparitions & Other Human Longings” available on Amazon
Silent practice – Everyone

Save your spot with deposit by Jan. 31st, 2012!
Departure from Kaohsiung, Taiwan (KH), 7:30am, Feb. 11th. Return to KH, 3:00pm, Feb. 12th, 2012.
($2500NT to reserve by Jan.31st, 2012)
Price includes transportation, accommodation, meals, workshops and materials.

To book your reservation/more info: kaohsiung.yogi@gmail.com
Photos, links: http://www.wretch.cc/blog/xc1019/4147389

http://uukt.idv.tw/_tw/member/01_detail.php?kd=350

On Facebook: “Kaohsiung Yogi”
and https://www.facebook.com/#!/groups/142770155805221/

Getting a DUI in Taiwan: Steep fines and some useful lessons

The Wild East staff

A heads-up for all foreigners who love driving recklessly — Taiwan cops are finally getting savvy

After a spate of recent high-profile cases involving deaths of innocents, Taiwan police are cracking down on drunk driving (or drink-driving if you prefer). This includes reining in foreigners under the influence, who have until recently enjoyed a certain marginalization and therefore immunity in matters of traffic violations. This is mainly due to the customarily poor English-speaking ability of most police officers, who in the past found dealing with foreigners ‘tai mafan‘ – too much trouble.

But things are different now. One British expat who was pulled over on his way home a few weeks ago by an English-proficient cop was asked if he’d take a blood test. “Stupidly I said ‘okay’,” he recounts. “I found out afterwards you can actually refuse to take a blood test. Although the fine for that will likely be stiff” — but not as bad as what turned out to be a DUI in Taiwan.

“I should have asked to go to the loo and drunk a lot of water first”, he commented, as “that would have perhaps brought my blood alcohol count down to an acceptable level.” Police have to allow you to drink some water if you request it.

“I didn’t think about this at the time, because I was so surprised the officer spoke English so well, but I should have just spoken Spanish to him. That would have been my get-out-of-jail-free card in this case,” the foreigner added.

Instead he got a .045 BAC reading, surpassing the .025 limit. Using this online BAC calculator, if he would have put off driving a while or had a couple glasses of water or cup of coffee before heading off, he might have been all right.

True, as one observer points out: “Sure it stings to get a steep fine, but a nasty accident would sting a lot more, take my word on this!”

Another laowai said the bust was probably a strong reminder in the long run, and: “There but for the grace of God go I”!

The driver’s blood count turned out to be .045, and his scooter was immediately confiscated and he had to take a taxi home. The next day he went into the Traffic division in Taipei to find out the fine: 30,000nt (about US$1000) to get his scooter back. Plus 6,000nt (about US$200) to avoid a one-year suspension of driving privileges. After about .060 penalties increase further.

Another expat, who was trying to drive home absolutely hammered and registered .076 BAC, got his scooter confiscated and spent the night in jail sobering up. He is still has a pending court case, where he could be slapped with a 150,000nt (US$5000) maximum penalty.

The fines might be steep to some, but getting intoxicated drivers off the road seems to be a wise strategy, and it’s one that will save lives — including the lives of those who might not feel they are driving under the influence.

Day in the Life of a Temple Sister

Ven. Miao Tan enjoys the simple life at the monastery. Photo: Trista di Genova

Trista di Genova, The Wild East

During a recent visit to the Foguang Shan Buddhist Monastery in southern Taiwan, the Ven. Miao Tan shared her story of entering the monastery. After “having doubts about life”, she came from Singapore to live and practice Buddhism, and learn “the value of life.” After becoming disillusioned with working in the hotel industry, she started asking herself questions, like: “Why am I here?” and “Do I really want to work this way?” She attended a gathering with guest speakers from Taiwan, and decided to enter the monastery to learn about Buddhism.

This is how the Ven. Miao Tan describes a typical day for her at the monastery:

8:30 – 11:30 work – in public relations, in her case. Ven. Miao Tan says that 12 groups of Mainland Chinese visitors now tour the monastery every day. “They used to ask crazy questions,” she said, everything from “Do you have a relationship?” to “How much do you get paid?” (In China religious ‘officials’ are remunerated).
12-1pm: Lunch break, then rest and read. That day she ate with us the vegetarian buffet at the monastery’s restaurant, which certainly had the best and most creatively prepared vegetarian food I’ve ever had.
1pm – 5:40pm: work in an office, ‘guestmaster’ meeting with guests, translation work
5:40pm: close office
6pm: dinner
6:30-7:30pm: free time
7:30 – 9:30 pm: self-cultivation, which could be three things: 1) calligraphy, copying sutras 2)recitation or self-directed study; or 3) meditation.
10pm: lights off for everybody, ‘so as not to disturb others’

Ven. Miao Tan says of her experience there, “It’s like a military life. Life is very strict. I came with only a small suitcase, only the bare necessities.” She spoke of her struggle to adjust to such an ascetic existence at first, with questions like: “Why do I have to put soap and brush in my basin, in this way?” She wondered — What does this have to do with suffering? So she posted this question on a bulletin board, which is monitored by teachers, and was given the response, “If you cannot manage even this small area, how can you live your life?”

Today the Ven. Miao Tan enjoys this simple life. She’s contented with her new life, finding it “full of meaning, and feeling for others.” Once when participating in relief work in Taiwan, she wondered why it was that some people were never satisfied with the assistance they received, but others, say those at the top of a hill who were relatively unscathed by a natural disaster, could be more concerned that others received help before them.

Empathizing is the key to peace between each of us, and key to peace in this world, she concluded.

New Buddha Memorial opens in Kaohsiung, thanks to ‘a million well-wishers’

The new Buddha statue. Photo: Trista di Genova

This month’s unveiling of 180m-high copper Buddha statue, the largest of its kind in Asia

By Trista di Genova, The Wild East

The Fo Guang Shan (‘Buddha Light Mountain’) Monastery in Kaohsiung, southern Taiwan opened to the public this month its new memorial to the Enlightened One, an 108m-high, 1,780-ton copper statue that is the largest of its kind in Asia. The monumental effort entailed three months of assembly, using in total 800 tons of metal.

The monument’s cost is hard to calculate since the project was the result of “a million well-wishers” –individual donations from supporters around the world — but it’s somewhere in the vicinity of 10 billion NT dollars (US$332 million), according to representatives there, who say “it’s all about the spirit.”

When asked “Why spend so much money on such construction when those funds could go to charity?” Fo Guang Shan’s Venerable Miao Tan explains the thinking behind the decision to carry out this undertaking: “This is charity, and an education that is unstoppable and goes on for many thousands of years.”

The memorial is intended to become “a site of great spiritual significance” and a force for peace in the world. Grounds include a massive square that features a basement gallery, flanked by eight bell tower pagodas. Trees landscaping the grounds were grown from seedling, at Kaohsiung primary schools among other places, then transported and replanted on the premises. At first, locals in the area were concerned that construction would be for something like a cemetery, but their fears were put to rest.

Poster for Master Hsing Yun's 'one stroke' calligraphy competitions.

Construction for the monument began in 1998, and after more than 100 draft versions, a plan was decided upon, according to architectural specifications that were the inspiration of the monastery’s Master Hsing Yun. To express his vision for its design, Master Hsing Yun took eight bottles, a box and another smaller bottle and arranged them in order for an 8-pagoda design, with a main stupa. He said, “This is how I want the Buddha memorial to look,” according to another guide.

In front of the statue is an underground gallery with 48 rooms designed to act as a huge time capsule. Items for the time capsule are contributed from around the world — objects of great sentimental value fill a room, and sealed with a stone door. One hundred years later, one room will be opened every year.

The intention of the time capsule is to preserve heritage, “to learn from history, and to record for people many generations later so they’ll find out about us,” says the Ven. Miao Tan, our guide on a media tour taken in December that was sponsored by the Taiwan Tourism Bureau. “We want to keep something so in future people will open a capsule and deliver the past. We’ll get to know what we were,” she explained. She elaborates the aim to see everyday objects that are important or meaningful to us at that time, so we will better understand our forebears, “how they live and what’s important to them.”

Established in 1967, the Fo Guang Shan Monastery began as a Buddhist education college. Today there are 200 branches and convention centers founded by the Fo Guang Shan around the world (a new one in Los Angeles), with the mission ‘to bridge Buddhism and humanity’.

Fo Guang Shan is well-known for its Buddha tooth relic, which, while being shown in a glass case, a second tooth is said to have miraculously appeared beside it a few years ago, according to a temple guide.

‘Horse eats Grass’ (馬吃蔡): Ma gets re-elected

POLITICS / The Wild East

As W.E. predicted, KMT President Ma Ying-jeou won a fairly close election against DPP challenger Tsai Ing-wen. With a 74% turnout rate, Ma won with about 780,000 votes, or 4-5 percent over Tsai, 51.5% to her 45.6%. In Tsai’s concession speech, she resigned as DPP chair to take responsibility for her party’s defeat; supporters could be seen at the rally crying in frustration.

Ma, in an acceptance speech delivered in the drizzling rain, thanked his wife Chow Mei-ching for always challenging him, and Taiwan voters, adding that his administration would meet with other parties every six months. Although there were several running, Green Party candidates garnered too few votes to even show up in initial media reports.

Why wasn’t the election closer, is one interesting question. As it turns out People First Party candidate James Soong captured less of the vote (less than 3%) than the expected 4-5% he was polling at before. Perhaps these Soong voters ended up voting for Ma after all. Former (DPP) Vice President Annette Lu opined that pre-election polls had not taken into account the 200,000 or so Taiwanese factory owners in China who flew back to Taiwan to vote in the election.

In the legislature, the KMT won 64 out of 113 seats in the Legislative Yuan, versus 40 for the DPP, retaining its majority.

According to the Financial Times:

Ma described his victory as “a vote for clean government, peace, and prosperity for Taiwan.”

“You have told me, in the clearest voice possible, to continue on my current path,” he added.

Mr Ma’s victory will probably be welcomed by Beijing and Washington because he has promised to maintain peace and stability across the Taiwan Strait. During his first term in office, Mr Ma engineered a dramatic turnround in relations and greatly reduced tension with China.

Chinese Python Swallowing the Taiwan Frog

OPINION / By Linda Arrigo (permission to republish; originally here)

The New York Times editorial, “To Save Our Economy, Ditch Taiwan”, has raised my hackles – I always warned Taiwanese independence advocates that the US would sell them out, and here it is literal.

I have not been following the pre-election campaigns, but rather rely on my Taiwanese friends to give their boiled-down version of what’s in the news. More significant than public statements, I think, is the glimpses I have gotten on under-the-table long-term developments, by way of friends and acquaintances in government and business. Recently some Australian visitors to Taiwan asked my opinion, and I hit upon the analogy that Taiwan is a frog that is already in the jaws of a large python, but the python may find it hard to swallow. The “status quo” is of course not static, and has been moving predictably in China’s favor since the mid-1990’s.

At the present moment, several factors may be salient. First, Taiwan’s retired military and security officers have been going to China for at least the last two decades, and some even serve as consultants to China. A while back the Taipei Times made a count of over 400. I believe that China has thorough intelligence on Taiwan independence forces and others in Taiwan, and is poised to crack down when needed. For example, last month local newspapers revealed that a professor at the police academy had copied personal information on Taiwan citizens criticizing China from police files and handed the information over to China. I have also run into numerous Chinese academics coming to Taiwan to “study” the Taiwan independence movement, but what they write generally reports the Kuomintang (KMT) line. As for Taiwan’s capacity for self-defense, to quote a private presentation by one of the correspondents for Jane’s Defence Weekly, Taiwan pays out for the fanciest and shiniest fire engines, but neglects to purchase the hoses. I’d guess that Taiwan’s purchases from the US are in effect protection money, only applicable for the current year.

Second, although China may depend largely on the KMT as its proxy to keep Taiwanese in line, it has been directly influencing KMT and even some current and former Democratic Progressive Party (DPP) elected officials with monetary rewards delivered through intermediaries. One of my sources on this is a member of the Kaohsiung City Council. For example, Chen Chu, mayor of Kaohsiung, was quickly punished for showing “The Ten Conditions of Love” about the heroine of Xinjiang, Rebiya Kadeer, by such a mechanism. It is likely that China, not merely the KMT, was ultimately behind the 2006 blitz to remove Chen Shui-bian.

Third, freedom of speech has markedly contracted. China has been reportedly buying into more and more Taiwan media. It can easily be observed that Taiwan TV news no longer addresses anything more significant than suicides, traffic accidents, and where to buy the best beef noodles (the reporters get convenient payouts from restaurants reported on). As in Singapore, and as in the new policy enacted by the security agencies and the Government Information Office in 1983 after the 1980 Kaohsiung Incident trials for sedition put egg on their faces in international press, political opponents can be crippled through libel charges. The courts have recently been fining those charged with libel $NT5-6 million, e.g. the fine for a commentator calling Shih Ming-deh (now aligned with Blues and Reds) a “political gigolo”. Within academia, universities have at the request of government officials removed from positions of authority professors who have criticized Ma Ying-jeou’s policies; and academics in general have shifted to self-censorship and avoidance of sensitive social and political topics.

Fourth, the rapid economic development of China has pushed past a tipping point: Native Taiwanese capitalists have in past decades understandably been eager to be free from the predatory KMT government and state corporations, and strongly supported the cause of democracy and Taiwan independence as well. But in the 1990’s they moved labor-intensive activities to China and elsewhere by the necessity of international competition, and now the Chinese market looms large as well. China has both increasingly accommodated the Taiwanese businessmen (e.g. allowing them international schools for their children) and enmeshed and controlled them (selective tax audits, with fines open to negotiation). This is the underlying dynamic, I believe, that even Tsai Ing-wen cannot undo, assuming she is elected.

Many Greens think that Tsai Ing-wen of the DPP has a 50-50 chance of being elected, and I hope that she is, but I would not hold my breath. If so, we might have a new lease on the progress of democracy in Taiwan, at least for the time being. It will also be a crucial test of whether we do in fact have a democratic process in voting; but the long economic strength and patronage network of the KMT, intimidation from China, and intentional idiocy of the media inveigh against putting too much trust in real democratic process.

Linda Gail Arrigo is Assistant Professor at Taipei Medical University. Professor Arrigo has been visiting Taiwan since the 1960s, where she was closely linked to the opposition movement, being deported for her role in the Kaohsiung Incident. Prof. Arrigo is an authority on human rights in Taiwan.

How to speak some basic ‘Street Chinese’

by Trista di Genova

If you are like me, you are trying to learn Chinese, the REAL spoken-in-the-streets kind of Chinese. But all your Chinese-speakin’ friends won’t answer your questions about how to say all the important stuff, because they don’t want to teach you ‘Bad Chinese’! (Of course, THEY want to learn all the bad words in English!)

I have a few truly cool Taiwanese friends, however, who will give me a straight answer, and I’ve compiled an introductory lesson here on all the most useful down-and-dirty words we’d all like to know!

Ni yo bing, ah? — ARE YOU CRAZY?
Bao xie(3) — RELAX!
Chi-se wo le! — YOU’RE PISSING ME OFF
Wo yao bao-yuan — I WANT TO COMPLAIN
Bu yao chao! — CUT IT OUT!
Ji – nu — WHORE
san ba po(3) — BITCH
Ni xiang da wo? — WANNA FIGHT?
Ni fei(4) le, ah! — YOU’RE VERY LUCKY!
Zai go shi — TO STEP IN DOGSHIT
Xia lio! — SON OF A BITCH
Hao xin fun — EXCITED
ji la yian – GIGOLO
dong ma? — UNDERSTAND?
Yan(2)-chi(2) or Zhi(1) neng(3) chi(2) huan de — RETARD
huang-min de — RIDICULOUS
shi-hao wo — SERVICE ME
Mingbai de meo? — CLEAR?
Qu kan yi-sha — GO CHECK IT OUT
Bu yao pong wo — DON’T TOUCH ME
Wo bu zai hu — I DON’T CARE
Wo bu jong ju-le — I HAVE NO IDEA
Gan she-ma! — WHAT THE HELL!?
Hai ke-yi — PRETTY GOOD
Jie-guo — LET ME PASS
Gwan — SCRAM
Nide dongxi ban-kai — MOVE YOUR STUFF
Chien-xi — FOREPLAY

This warms me heart for some reason.

Thanks for making The Wild East ‘most social blog’ in 2011!

Thanks to those of you who showed us the love, sometimes several times this year!

Voting is closed for Taiwanderful’s Best Blog in Taiwan 2011!

Thanks to all of you who voted us Best Blog two times before. : -) You went to this link and made it a tradition. We particularly enjoy Richard Saunders’ travel blog, and Steven Crooks’ site both whom we interviewed this year; A Hungry Girl’s Guide to Taipei for eating in Taiwan, and Prof. Keating’s political blog, as well as Shu Flies and Taiwan Xifu.

At The Wild East Magazine, this year we worked towards filling in the gap in local coverage of news and events affecting the foreign community in Taiwan’s English-language newspapers, including important social events that bring us all closer together. Both the Taipei Times and The China Post cut their Community Compass and Foreign Community pages, respectively. So as a community we have moved online, to this network of sites among friends on the blogosphere.

This year, based on the number of hits, our best stories have focused on one foreigner’s experience in a Taipei Detention Center for overstaying a visa; Jerome Keating’s essay on the ROC’s centennial; a tragic and likely unnecessary demise of a young Taiwanese hiker; and an essay protesting the method of Chinese-language instruction in Taiwan.

Thanks for your regular contributions and feedback, and of course we always welcome your submissions and story ideas.

Best wishes for a safe and adventurous holiday season. And thanks for voting – assiduously!

The Wild East Staff